Formában voltam, (ismét) sokat beszéltem a különleges, mi több, szokatlan országokba (Azerbajdzsán, Irán, Palesztina stb.) történő utazásaimról. Sokan visszajeleztek, hogy hallgatták az adást (főzés, vezetés, vécézés közben), s tetszett nekik. Kritikát is kaptam, hogy nem fedtem fel a támogatóimat, bár ha alaposan meghallgatod az adást, beszélek róluk. Nos, akkor itt ismét megteszem: a szüleim és a barátaim, ismerőseim.
Hogyan lehet olcsón utazni? Melyek a trükkök? Hatszáz euró ajtótól ajtóig Iránba, mindennel együtt? Hogyan lehetséges?
Mihály István, köszönjük szépen a lehetőséget, hogy tegnap a palesztinai élményekről, kalandokról beszélhettünk az általad vezetett műsorban. Egyelőre egy-két nyaralási tippet adtunk a (jóval) 2 ezer lej alatt keresőknek… 🙂 Tippjeink itt hallgathatók meg.
After visiting the Jewish cemetery in the settlement, we came upon this scene. A Jewish and a Palestinian man talking/arguing about something. Two IDF soldiers assisted. We went into the shop very close by. The soldiers looked amazed: why would to Jews buy from the Arabs. The Palestinians were also very surprised, but they served us without any problem…
Mihály István, a címben szereplő médiaintézmény szerkesztő-műsorvezetőjének meghívására a ZeneTerefere című műsorban Palesztináról mesélünk. Részletek itt.
A következő kérdésekre válaszolunk majd:
Mit írt házigazdánk, Mo vécéje fölött Hebronban?
Milyen közel kerültünk Jézus megkeresztelkedési helyéhez?
Miért kísért bennünket izraeli katona Hebronban?
Hánykor kell felkelnie az Essla kisfaluban lakó palesztin földművelőnek, ahhoz, hogy a földjét kettészelő izraeli katonai utat őrző katonák át- és visszaengedjék?
Mi volt a legnagyobb csalódás Jerikóban?
Milyen a fal Kelet-Jeruzsálemben és Betlehemben?
Mitől félt a házigazdánk Rammalahban?
Mi Qalqilya érdekessége?
Milyen érzésekkel haladtunk át a Qalandiya ellenőrzőponton?
Melyek voltak a legveszélyesebb helyzetek?
Egyáltalán: mi a fenét kerestünk mi egy olyan veszélyesnek tartott helyen, mint Palesztina?
We wondered around for a long time when we reached a dead end. A surreal scene: two Israeli soldiers at the end of the street with an iron gate behind their backs. An Arab boy selling falafel. In the middle of nowhere. Curious eyes gazed at us from the buildings – mostly children. I approached the soldiers, telling them we want to enter the mos… the church, but we cannot find the main entrance, the others are all closed. I also told them that at a nearby checkpoint their colleague asked if we’re Jews, we said no, but we are Christians, so he said yes, we can enter, and indicated the general direction where to get in, but we are unable to locate it. One of them said, he can accompany us. I felt very uneasy: going back to the Arab merchants with an Israeli soldier makes us automatically Jews, but we told them we’re from Hungary and Romania. We traveled with these passports, we didn’t want to elaborate about our ethnical background and how come we’re both Hungarians from Romania, we travel with different travel documents… What if the soldier is attacked by some Arabs, and we’ll be prosecuted for “luring” him into the danger zone. At each corner he looked left, then right and advanced only then. After asking some Arabs where the entrance is, and them telling him it’s the one we’ve already been to, but it’s closed, her said he has to return to his colleague. An eerie silence followed. More Palestinians gathered around us. He left. We quickly did the same. The Palestinians looked at us with suspicion
Hebron. After visiting the Jewish cemetery in the settlement, we came upon this scene. A Jewish and a Palestinian man talking/arguing about something. Two IDF soldiers assisted. We went into the shop very close by. The soldiers looked amazed: why would two Jews buy from the Arabs. The Palestinians were also very surprised, but they served us without any problem…
Palesztina életre szóló élményt jelentett. Egyrészt kíváncsi voltam az érem másik oldalára (2013-ban voltam Izraelben), a történelmi és a hírekben szereplő helyeket akartam meglátogatni.
Sikerült.
Szerencsére a Wizz Air légitársaságnak és a több hónappal korábbi jegyfoglalásnak köszönhetően a menettérti ár 303 lej, azaz 65 euró volt, s lévén, hogy kezdetben Sameh családjánál, majd a Kanapészörfölők, illetve ismerősök segítségével oldottuk meg a szállást, a 10 napos ott tartózkodás összköltségvetése 600 lej körül mozog (+/- 50 lej).
A költségeknek a minimálisra csökkentése mellett az otthonokban történt elszállásolásnak két hatalmas előnye és hozadéka van: a helyi ember szemével látod a helyzetet, illetve a közös élmények összekovácsolják az utazót és a házigazdát. Ez pedig maradandó élményt, emlékeket eredményez. Így szeretek utazni.
We wondered around for a long time when we reached a dead end. A surreal scene: two Israeli soldiers at the end of the street with an iron gate behind their backs. An Arab boy selling falafel. In the middle of nowhere. Curious eyes gazed at us from the buildings – mostly children. I approached the soldiers, telling them we want to enter the mos… the church, but we cannot find the main entrance, the others are all closed. I also told them that at a nearby checkpoint their colleague asked if we’re Jews, we said no, but we are Christians, so he said yes, we can enter, and indicated the general direction where to get in, but we are unable to locate it. One of them said, he can accompany us. I felt very uneasy: going back to the Arab merchants with an Israeli soldier makes us automatically Jews, but we told them we’re from Hungary and Romania. We traveled with these passports, we didn’t want to elaborate about our ethnic background and how come we’re both Hungarians from Romania, we travel with different travel documents… What if the soldier is attacked by some Arabs, and we’ll be prosecuted for “luring” him into the danger zone. At each corner he looked left, then right and advanced only then. After asking some Arabs where the entrance is, and them telling him it’s the one we’ve already been to, but it’s closed, her said he has to return to his colleague. An eerie silence followed. More Palestinians gathered around us. He left. We quickly did the same. The Palestinians looked at us with suspicion
Az utazó más, mint a turista, szerintem. Előbbi mélyrehatóan meg akarja ismerni a meglátogatott helyet, előre tájékozódik annak történelméről, a sajátosságokról, a turista elsősorban csak épületeket néz, kényelemre vágyik, szállodában/panzióban száll meg, nemigen kerül kapcsolatba a helyiekkel.
*****
A Szabadságban két részben jelent meg a palesztinai élménybeszámoló:
Jericho was on my list from the beginning of the trip: we spent a day there…
Please click on the first picture!
We traveled by bus from Ramallah to Jericho: it was only 17 shekels (4 euros) per person. From the center of Jericho we paid 15 shekels (3,50 euros) for the shared taxi until the base of the mountain. Of course, we climbed it…
After being baptized by John the Baptist Jesus retreated to the wilderness to meditate and fast, the mountain on which Jesus is believed to have spent the 40 days and 40 nights of spiritual contemplation is called the Mount of Temptation
Bibi and Jericho…
Near the Greek Orthodox Monastery of Temptation
Near the Greek Orthodox Monastery of Temptation
On the way down from the Mount of Temptation we met some pacifists…
Looking for Jesus…
Irresistable
Some petting. But not that kind
Locomotion
Extremely disappointing visit to the Hisham’s Palace. We didn’t see the wonderful The “Tree of Life” mosaic in the audience room of the bath house – it was being restored. Also, a wonderful, 7 million pieces mosaic…:( Bibi is pictured with an ornament from the former palace. Close to thos location we saw the Tell es-Sultan, a defensive or flood protection wall suggested to date to approximately 8000 before Christ. The Wall of Jericho is the oldest city wall discovered by archaeologists anywhere in the world
Bullets because, unfortunately, a lot of them are flying in Palestine and the Gaza Strip. They symbolize aggression, occupation, death, injuries, mourning. Stones because it is a form of resistance, retaliation and civic unrest. Why water drops? Wait until we reach Hebron…
Until then, please click on the first picture for the story to be unfolded.
On Thursday, March 29 we left the safety and comfort of the Muhammad family and traveled by taxi (cheap) to Qalqilia and then a minivan (shared bus) to Ramallah
The bus station in Qalqilia
Selling everything and anything near the bus station if Qalqilia
Arrival to Ramallah: things to see
Many young people are unemployed and they are just hanging out on the streets of Ramallah
Street in Ramallah, Palestine
We arrived to our host, Omar, and went out a bit in the evening…
On Friday, March 30, Land Day (an annual day of commemoration for Arab citizens of Israel and Palestinians of the events of that date in 1976 in Israel) we went to the Yasser Arafat museum in Ramallah. Seeing what they went through: what a tragic faith for the Palestinians!
A Western lady in the Yasser Arafat Museum
The room in the Mukataa (is an Arabic word for headquarters or administrative center) where meetings were held during the several months siege…
They feel good in the streets of Ramallah
Also, during the day
Not enough place for the field, no problem, there’s some in front of the greek catholic church
Opinions
In the evening we went to the separation wall near Ramallah
It was very close to a refugee camp and our hosts told us that being close to Kalandia didn’t made them feel secure…